Archive for March, 2009

Koliba Czech & Slovak Restaurant

Monday, March 30th, 2009

I’ve noticed Koliba many times, but it had sat ‘idle’ for so long I assumed that it was never opening. So, I was more than a little surprised to see it bustling with activity one day, and immediately began planning a trip there.

When we finally made it there, it was a coolish autumn day, perfect for hearty middle European cuisine. Based on this review I was going to order goulash, and looking at the other items on the menu, this indeed seemed like the best option.

After a couple of Czech beers, served a little warm for my liking, it arrived, together with side of shopska salad. It seemed like an authentic goulash in that it didn’t include any tomato, just a rich brown ‘gravy’ over beautifully tender beef. It’s served with bread dumplings, which are like a thick, spongy white bread, and at less than $20 is good value and filling.

The shopska salad was a slight letdown compared to those I’ve had in Europe, with average tomatoes and an overly mild cheese.

There are a few desserts on the menu, but with the size of mains, I think a lot of people would have trouble fitting them in.

Koliba is a worthy addition to the Collingwood restaurant scene, and I’m sure I’ll be back, particularly as the weather cools down.

Lucia’s – Adelaide

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Lucia’s is an Adelaide icon, having opened more than 50 years ago. In this sense it’s the city of churchs’ answer to Melbourne’s Pelligrini’s, or Canberra’s Gus’s, and it shares another trait. It’s simply not as good as a lot of people suggest.

Sure, the coffee isn’t too bad, but nor is it anything to write home about. And, based on my limited experience, the food, a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon, is not particularly memorable either.

Perhaps all of this is beside the point though, the real reason to come somewhere like Lucia’s is for the fantastic, authentic retro decor.

Red Door Corner Store

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Located at the bottom of Northcote hill to the east of High Street, Red Door Corner Store (70 Mitchell St, Northcote) is charting new territory for good cafes. There’s really nothing like it that I know of within a 2km radius.

What ‘it’ is, is a converted milk bar serving really good food and coffee. We tried the avocado, basil, cottage cheese, spinach and poached egg with fresh lemon on toast. While that sounds like one ingredient too many, it’s actually perfect, particularly the delicious cottage cheese. And despite only coming with a single egg, it’s reasonably filling and great value at just $11. The bread comes from Hawthorn’s Knead Bakery, and is has great texture thanks to the walnuts in it.

There are a couple of things that could be improved, such as the the coffee, which is just okay (not great). And like a lot of places that have enjoyed quick success, the service can be a bit slow. Our coffees arrived well after our meals. With food as good as this though, these faults are easily ignored.

Provenance Food & Wine

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

Another day, another review of somewhere recommended by Fitzroyalty. And another place I can recommend with qualifiers. Provence Food & Wine (288 Smith St, Collingwood) is a newish cafe occupying the former home of Delish, on the Collingwood side of Smith Street.

The decor is neither particularly modern or particularly traditional, with a beautiful pressed metal ceiling, and the same could be said of the food. Fitzroyalty praised the French Toast, and it is very good, topped with hazelnuts for beautiful texture. The Eggs Benedict were of an equally high standard, with the free range eggs cooked to perfection, and sitting atop spinach and crispy bacon, on a single piece of bread (two would have been better). The hollandaise was a little unusual, but not unpleasant. And the coffee is well made.

Now to the qualifier. The service is extremely slow. Maybe we just caught them on a bad day, but we had to wait too long for our coffees, and it didn’t seem to be for a lack of staff. Still, I’d certainly go back.

Ink

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009

Inspired by a post in Fitzroyalty, I went to check out Ink (5 Rae St, North Fitzroy) for some take away. After all, good quality fish and chips are hard to find in inner city Melbourne.

I ordered a piece of flake, the grilled fish of the day (marlin) and chips. The flake was very good, crisp batter surrounding a nice juicy, fresh piece of fish. Equally well done were the chips. Unfortunately the meal was let down badly by the grilled marlin. It was obviously left on the hotplate for 2 or 3 minutes too long, and as a result was very dry.

Still, the take away prices are reasonable, and the fried fish was pretty good, so I’d give it another shot. There’s a small bar with a good range of beer, so it might even be worth eating in.

Mitte

Sunday, March 1st, 2009

I first noticed Mitte (76 Michael St, North Fitzroy) spring up late last year in the sleepy streets behind the Clifton Hill shopping strip, and have been meaning to drop in ever since. A rave review in the Cheap Eats prompted me to actually pay a visit. I’ll get the negative out the way first, since there isn’t much. Even on a cool-ish Melbourne day, the small space is too hot and stuff.
Now onto the good. The coffee is excellent. My long black had a thick head of crema, and was served at a perfect temperature. They do an equally good latte.
Aside from Bircher Muesli, the breakfast menu doesn’t offer much in the way of straight-down-the-line dishes, with most dishes offering some variation on the traditional. The fantastic omelette has chorizo and comes served with a zingy salad. Similarly, poached eggs on toast are served with a chick pea bake with goats fetta and a zingy salad.
Prices are a couple of dollars higher than a lot of places, with a lot of dishes around the $15 mark, but the quality and serving sizes more than warrant this.