Lygon Charcoal Grill & Steakhouse

December 28th, 2009

Whenever I hear people recommend the Carlton end of Lygon Street as a destination for great food, it makes me laugh. Sure, there’s nothing wrong with most of the many cafes and restaurants dotted along the strip, but most of them are certainly not particularly noteworthy.

That said, I did enjoy a recent meal I had at the Lygon Charcoal Grill & Steakhouse (120 Lygon St, Carlton) a lot more than I thought I would.

In nearly all respects, it’s your typical Melbourne steakhouse, with slabs of meat on display in a glass cabinet, ready to be turned into the steak of your choice – in terms of cut, size and doneness. The menu also includes the obligatory seafood, sausages, chicken and strawberry pancakes, along with (surprisingly) risotto. Not sure why you’d order risotto at a steak house, but whatever floats your boat.

I chose a porterhouse done rare. The steak itself wasn’t overly flavoursome for a porterhouse, and was closer to medium rare, but was tender enough and not overcooked enough that I’d send it back. Particularly given that, at $31.50 for around 450 grams, it was fairly priced. Like all steaks, it came with some spinach and potato, which was absolutely delicious thanks to liberal use of butter.

The others two people I were with ordered the scotch fillet and the rib-eye, and spoke very highly of them – and the sides.

While I can’t see Lygon Charcoal Grill & Steakhouse gracing the pages of the Good Food Guide any time soon (it actually did feature in 1995 and 1996), if you’re looking for a reasonable steak, at a reasonable price, with friendly service, in the inner city, it’s recommended.

Luncheonette

December 12th, 2009

When you pay $8.50 for a baguette, it needs to be very good. I’m happy to say that the baguette I got from new Kensington cafe, Luncheonette (173 Rankins Road, Kensington), was worth every cent. I believe the bread is from Dench, which is a good start, and was filled with nicely poached chicken, quality mayonnaise, ripe tomato and some lettuce. If I had a complaint, it would be about the size, but given the quality of the ingredients, it’s fair.

Like the baguette, the cafe itself is pretty small. It’s simply but tastefully fitted out, and I’d be happy to return to explore more of the menu.

Atomica Caffe

December 11th, 2009

At some stage, Atomica (268 Brunswick St, Fitzroy) would have been a cool new Fitzroy/Collingwood cafe. That was in the past, and it’s been overtaken by the likes of Birdman Eating and Cavallero in the cool stakes. The interior is looking pretty tired and the menu doesn’t look particularly exciting.

What it lacks in style, it more than makes up for in substance. The coffee is the best and most consistent in Fitzroy – much better than many of Melbourne’s cafes that makes up the so-called ‘third wave’ of coffee.

Similarly, the food, while not particularly imaginative, is executed perfectly. Scrambled eggs are actually scrambled rather than being mashed up omelettes, and poached eggs are done just right. Side are equally good, with crispy bacon, ripe tomatoes, and beans that actually taste home-made, or house made, as other cafes might phrase it. Even the bread is even baked there.

Service is friendly, and when a mistake in service is made, the staff is happy to acknowledge it.

Next time you’re wanting a nice breakfast out, instead of queueing for a table at the latest cool cafe, give Atomica a shot.

Charcoal Lane

November 8th, 2009

When you pay $14 for scrambled eggs and hash browns, you want everything to be close to perfect. Charcoal Lane (136 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy), a newish cafe/restaurant/social enterprise, ultimately fell short.

The scrambled eggs were well executed, reasonably fluffy and nicely seasoned. They were also listed as free range, and the serving was pretty generous. Even better were the hash browns, a mount of buttery, salty (but not too much so) grated potato.

scrambled eggs from Charcoal Lane
Apologies for the photo, taken after I’d started the dish

The dish was let down by the toast, which was made from thin slices of decidedly average bread. I wouldn’t quite say it was supermarket quality, but it was much too light and didn’t taste much like sourdough, as the menu promised.

My girlfriend ordered corn fritters, which came with a chutney, and were superb. The texture was just right, and you could actually taste the sweetness of the corn kernels.

The coffee wasn’t too bad, although I’m not too sure about the Bodum double walled coffee glasses my long black was served in. It did keep the coffee hot, but I don’t think it did the flavours any favours.

Barbagallo Trattoria e Pizzeria

November 2nd, 2009

With +39 Pizzeria & Degustation going gangbusters, there appears to be demand for good pizza in the Melbourne CBD. So, the opening of Barbagallo Trattoria e Pizzeria (103 Lonsdale St, Melbourne) seems like a no brainer.

It’s the new restaurant of Pietro Barbagallo, who started i Carusi fame, arguably the place that kicked off Melbourne’s pizza renaissance, so it’s a safe bet that the pizzas are going to be good, and they are.

The pizzas subscribe to the less-is-more theory, with minimal toppings. My salsiccia pizza was topped with passata, cheese, chilli, red onion and, of course, sausage. The flavours worked well together, but the passata could have been richer and the sausage could have been a little more multi-dimensional.

Salsiccia pizza

I also found the base a little bland, and worse still, by the time I had finished, it had turned a little soggy in the middle. To be fair though, it was only the first week, so it may be that they’re still getting used to the oven.

The biggest problem that I can see, however, is the pricing, with most pizzas sitting around the $18 mark. Given the Lonsdale Street location, I’d imagine they’re expecting to draw in the lunchtime crowd, but I think the pricing is a little steep. Drinks are also pricey, with pots of Trumer Pils costing $7.50.

WIth +39 serving up pizzas that are not only much cheaper (around $12), but also better in my opinion, Barbagallo Trattoria e Pizzeria still has a bit of work to do.

Northern Soul

October 25th, 2009

When I lived in Thornbury in the late nineties, Thornbury didn’t have cafes. Well, not cafes like Northern Soul (843 High St, Northcote), and certainly not this far north up High Street, way up past Darebin Road.

It looks fairly non-descript from the outside, with only a small picture of an owl hinting anything interesting. Inside though it’s a nice place to be, with a tasteful fit-out and furniture, relaxing music, and some delicious smells wafting from the kitchen.

The breakfast menu is short, but there’s something for everybody, including vegetarians. Amazingly, there’s only 1 egg dish – fried, poached or scrambled on toast. I went for scrambled, with a side of bacon. The toast was a little thinly sliced for my liking, but the eggs were cooked pretty well, and rich butter. My bacon, originally forgotten, arrived shortly after my eggs, and wide quite salty (even for bacon), though not unpleasantly so.

My girlfriend ordered fruit tabouleh, which was bulgur wheat with nuts, fruit and honey. I didn’t try any, but it was apparently nice and tasted healthy.

The coffee was well made, which is increasingly uncommon in Melbourne cafes these days, despite the “third wave of coffee” apparently being in full swing here. The crema was thick, suggesting fresh beans, and importantly, it wasn’t burned.

I also ordered a blueberry muffin to take home, and it was moist inside, with some nice crisp bits on outside, and a generous berry to muffin ratio.

Servings were generous, everything was put prepared well, and the service was friendly. I’d certainly be happy to spend another Sunday morning here.

Q Eleven

October 10th, 2009

Some of the inclusions in Cheap Eats puzzle me. Take Q 11 (303 Coventry St, South Melbourne) for instance, at least in terms of breakfast. The big breakfast, doesn’t live up to its name, unless you’re talking about the price. For around $17 you get eggs on toast, bacon, tomato, spinach, mushrooms and relish.

This sounds reasonable, except when it arrives and you get a single piece of toast, a single rasher of bacon, a single sausage (are you sensing a pattern?), two eggs, a tomato, spinach, 3 or 4 mushrooms, and relish.

This would be excusable if the food was great, but it’s not. My poached eggs had a texture that suggested that they had been prepared in poaching cups. The roasted tomato was floury, still had the core intact, and didn’t appear to have seen much time in the oven.

On a more positive note, the other components of the dish were better – in particular the good quality sausage pairing well with the relish. The coffee was competently made, and the service is friendly.

This wouldn’t be enough to draw me back though. At least not until the prices fall a little, or they stop being so stingy with the bread and bacon.

Juanita’s

October 3rd, 2009

I remembered reading Fitzroyalty’s very positive review of Juanita’s, so decided to drop in for lunch.

I only wish I’d re-read his post, or that of Where’s the Beef before visiting, because I could have ordered a lot better. Had I re-read either of these posts, I would have definitely ordered the Huevos Rancheros, which not only look awesome, but filling too.

Instead I ordered a sort of Chilean steak sandwich. It was tasty, but was very small for a steak sandwich, and at $15.50 didn’t represent very good value. Other cafes would have charged around $10 for a serving of this size.

My girlfriend chose the kidney bean gratin, which was delicious. We shared a delicious vanilla slice for ‘dessert’.

It took around half an hour for our meals to arrive (far too long), but I’d still give Juanita’s another shot.

Grace Darling Hotel

September 27th, 2009

The Grace Darling, not to be confused with the Grey Starling, has served up pretty good pub grub for some time. It’s only recently however, with some new faces behind the scenes, that the quality of the food has translated into bums on seats.
The hipster crowd has flocked to it, like seagulls to a hot chip. On the Saturday night that we visited, it was particularly noisy, even for a pub.
I order the seared yellowfin tuna with anchoiade (caper, mustard sauce) and baby potatoes, which also arrived with a nice unadvertised addition of asparagus. A generous slab of fish was cooked to perfection, coloured on the outside, and nice and pink in the centre. The not-too-salty anchioade was a perfect complement, and butter potatoes provided some welcome carbs. Fantastic.
My girlfriend, who is a fairly harsh critic when it comes to meat dishes, ordered the burger, and could barely stop talking about how good it was for the next hour. Most dishes sit around the $20 mark, which is very reasonably for food of this quality.
Drinks aren’t quite so cheap, with the good range of beers let down a bit by some fairly hefty pricing. That’s a minor issue though, for the Grace Darling has gone from good to very good.

The Seafood Shak

September 13th, 2009

It was an unseasonably warm September evening, so fish and chips seemed in order. I had two new fish and chip shops to choose from, The Ol School Fish & Chips (566 Brunswick St, North Fitzroy) and The Seafood Shak (150 Scotchmer St, North Fitzroy).

I’d already had a burger and chips from the latter, so that seemed like a safe bet. There are nine different types of fish to choose from, but I opted for the standard flake. Three pieces of flake and minimum chips (not all for me) cost $18.60 and arrived pretty quickly, despite it being a busy night.

Each piece of flake was a generous size, very fresh, and cooked perfectly in clean oil. The batter was crisp and flavoursome, and the fish nice and moist. The chips were also well cooked, again in clean rice bran oil. This oil gives the chips a distinct flavour that’s quite hard to describe, and may not be be to all tastes, but I don’t mind them.

Next time I’ll try The Ol School Fish & Chips, but it will need to be good to better The Seafood Shak, which I think is the best fish and chip shop in Melbourne.